Irrigation Engineering

Irrigation Engineering
Daya Publishing House | 2010 | ISBN: 8189729985 | 272 pages | PDF | 8 MB

Effective irrigation, enhanced pertinent technologies, thereby provides a most lucrative source for making agriculture profitable and worthwhile. This book has been written as a manual guiding agricultural engineers on the principles and concepts which define irrigation engineering. Elaborating upon the tools, technologies and techniques which are essential to the field, the text takes a look at the types of irrigation, including surface, localised and sprinkler systems, and how they are changing agriculture itself by making it more scientific. In addition to it the challenges faced by irrigation systems including those of entrophication, water pollution, depletion of underground aquifers, etc., are also discussed. Current trends and development have been analysed as well as the future prospects and opportunities.

Irrigation Management

Irrigation Management
CABI | 2010-03-25 | ISBN: 1845935160 | 392 pages | PDF | 3 MB

In many countries irrigated agriculture consumes a large proportion of the available water resources, often over 70% of the total. There is considerable pressure to release water for other uses, and as a sector irrigated agriculture will have to increase its efficiency and productivity of water use. Drawing on the author's 30 years of experience in some 28 countries, this book offers knowledge for the management of irrigation and drainage systems, including traditional technical areas of systems operation and maintenance, and expanding managerial, institutional and organizational aspects. Chapters provide guidelines to improve management, operation and maintenance processes, which move management thinking out of traditional public-sector mindsets to a more customer-focussed, performance-oriented service delivery. As a practical guide to improve efficiency and productivity in irrigated agriculture, this book will be essential reading for irrigation managers and technicians as well as students and policymakers in water management, agriculture and sustainable development.

All About Composting

Compost is a rich and crumbly blend of partially decomposed organic material that does wonderful things for your garden.

Building and maintaining a compost pile is the surest, easiest way to become a better gardener. Not only will you be producing the best possible food for your garden, but by watching leaves, eggshells, orange rinds, and grass clippings become transformed into rich compost filled with earthworms and other soil creatures, you'll be learning what healthy soil is all about.

Compost improves soil structure. Most gardeners don't start with great soil. Whether yours is hard and compacted, sandy, stony, heavy, or wet, adding compost will improve its texture, water-holding capacity, and fertility. Your soil will gradually become fluffy and brown—the ideal home for healthy plants.

Compost provides a balanced source of plant nutrients. Even if you are lucky enough to have great soil, you can't expect that soil to remain rich and productive without replenishing the nutrients that are consumed each growing season. No commercial fertilizer, even one that is totally organic, provides the full spectrum of nutrients that you get with compost. The nutrients are available gradually, as your plants need them, over a period of months or years. The microorganisms in the compost will also help your plants absorb nutrients from fertilizers more efficiently.

 

Compost stimulates beneficial organisms. Compost is teeming with all kinds of microorganisms and soil fauna that help convert soil nutrients into a form that can be readily absorbed by your plants. The microorganisms, enzymes, vitamins and natural antibiotics that are present in compost actually help prevent many soil pathogens from harming your plants. Earthworms, millipedes, and other macro-organisms tunnel through your soil, opening up passageways for air and water to reach your plants' roots.

Compost is garden insurance. Even very experienced gardeners often have soil that is less than perfect. Adding compost moderates pH and fertility problems, so you can concentrate on the pleasures of gardening, not the science of your soil’s chemical composition. Unlike organic or inorganic fertilizers, which need to be applied at the right time and in the right amount, compost can be applied at any time and in any amount. You can't really over-apply it. Plants use exactly what they need, when they need it.

Can a gardener ever have enough compost? It's doubtful. Compost is the perfect thing to spread around when you are creating a new garden, seeding a new lawn area, or planting a new tree. Compost can be sprinkled around plants during the growing season or used as a mulch in your perennial gardens. You can add compost to your flower boxes and deck planters. You can also use it to enrich the potting soil for your indoor plants.

How Compost Happens

Organic matter is transformed into compost through the work of microorganisms, soil fauna, enzymes and fungi. When making compost, your job is to provide the best possible environment for these beneficial organisms to do their work. If you do so, the decomposition process works very rapidly—sometimes in as little as two weeks. If you don't provide the optimum environment, decomposition will still happen, but it may take from several months to several years. The trick to making an abundance of compost in a short time is to balance the following four things:

Carbon. Carbon-rich materials are the energy food for microorganisms. You can identify high-carbon plant materials because they are dry, tough, or fibrous, and tan or brown in color. Examples are dry leaves, straw, rotted hay, sawdust, shredded paper, and cornstalks.

Nitrogen. High-nitrogen materials provide the protein-rich components that microorganisms require to grow and multiply. Freshly pulled weeds, fresh grass clippings, over-ripe fruits and vegetables, kitchen scraps and other moist green matter are the sorts of nitrogen-rich materials you'll probably have on hand. Other high-protein organic matter includes kelp meal, seaweed, manure and animal by-products like blood or bone meal.

Water. Moisture is very important for the composting process. But too much moisture will drown the microorganisms, and too little will dehydrate them. A general rule of thumb is to keep the material in your compost pile as moist as a well-wrung sponge. If you need to add water (unchlorinated is best), insert your garden hose into the middle of the pile in several places, or sprinkle the pile with water next time you turn it. Using an enclosed container or covering your pile with a tarp will make it easier to maintain the right moisture level.

Oxygen. To do their work most efficiently, microorganisms require a lot of oxygen. When your pile is first assembled, there will probably be plenty of air between the layers of materials. But as the microorganisms begin to work, they will start consuming oxygen. Unless you turn or in some way aerate your compost pile, they will run out of oxygen and become sluggish.

Do I Need a Recipe?

Sample Compost Recipes

Recipe 1

• 1 part fresh grass clippings
• 1 part dry leaves
• 1 part good garden soil

Spread the ingredients in 3-inch-deep layers to a height of 3 to 4 feet.

Recipe 2

• 2 parts fresh grass clippings
• 2 parts straw or spoiled hay
• 1 part good garden soil

Spread ingredients in 4-inch layers, adding water if needed.

Recipe 3

• 2 parts dry leaves
• 1 part fresh grass clippings
• 1 part food scraps

Spread ingredients in 4-inch layers, adding water if needed.

Microorganisms and other soil fauna work most efficiently when the ratio of carbon-rich to nitrogen-rich materials in your compost pile is approximately 25:1 (brown to green) but most people find three parts brown and one part green works quite well. In practical terms, if you want to have an active compost pile, you should include lots of high-carbon "brown" materials (such as straw, wood chips, or dry leaves) and a lesser amount of high-nitrogen "green" materials (such as grass clippings, freshly pulled weeds, or kitchen scraps).

If you have an excess of carbon-rich materials and not enough nitrogen-rich materials, your pile may take years to decompose (there is not enough protein for those microbes!). If your pile has too much nitrogen and not enough carbon, your pile will also decompose very slowly (not enough for the microbes to eat!), and it will probably be soggy and smelly along the way.

But don't worry about determining the exact carbon content of a material or achieving a precise 25:1 ratio. Composting doesn't need to be a competitive, goal-oriented task. All organic matter breaks down eventually, no matter what you do. If you simply use about 3 times as much "brown" materials as "green" materials, you'll be off to a great start. Take a look at the sample recipes and check the chart of common compost materials. With experience, you'll get a sense for what works best.

Compost Gets Hot

Common Compost Ingredients

Brown

High-carbon materials

• corncobs and stalks
• paper
• pine needles
• sawdust or wood shavings
• straw
• vegetable stalks
• dry leaves

Green

High-nitrogen materials

• coffee grounds
• eggshells
• fruit wastes
• grass clippings
• feathers or hair
• fresh leaves
• seaweed
• kitchen scraps
• fresh weeds
• rotted manure
• alfalfa meal

Ingredients to Spice Up Your Compost Pile

The following materials can be sprinkled onto your compost pile as you build each layer. They will add important nutrients and will help speed up the composting process:

• Super Hot Compost Starter, applied at the rate on the package.
• Garden soil or finished compost (high in microorganisms), 1/2 shovelful on each layer
• Bone meal, blood meal, or alfalfa meal (high in nitrogen), 1/2 shovelful on each layer
• Fish waste or manure (high in nitrogen), a shovelful on each layer
• Wood stove or fireplace ashes (high in potash and carbon), a shovelful on each layer
• Crushed rock dust (rich in minerals/feeds microbes), a shovelful on each layer

Heat is a by-product of intense microbial activity. It indicates that the microorganisms are munching on organic matter and converting it into finished compost. The temperature of your compost pile does not in itself affect the speed or efficiency of the decomposition process. But temperature does determine what types of microbes are active.

There are primarily three types of microbes that work to digest the materials in a compost pile. They each work best in a particular temperature range:

The psychrophiles work in cool temperatures—even as low as 28 degrees F. As they begin to digest some of the carbon-rich materials, they give off heat, which causes the temperature in the pile to rise. When the pile warms to 60 to 70 degrees F, mesophilic bacteria take over. They are responsible for the majority of the decomposition work. If the mesophiles have enough carbon, nitrogen, air, and water, they work so hard that they raise the temperature in the pile to about 100 degrees F. At this point, thermophilic bacteria kick in. It is these bacteria that can raise the temperature high enough to sterilize the compost and kill disease-causing organisms and weed seeds. Three to five days of 155 degrees F. is enough for the thermophiles to do their best work.

Getting your compost pile "hot" (140 to 160 degrees F.) is not critical, but it does mean that your compost will be finished and usable within a month or so. These high temperatures also kill most weed seeds, as well as harmful pathogens that can cause disease problems. Most people don't bother charting the temperature curve in their compost pile. They just try to get a good ratio of carbon to nitrogen, keep the pile moist and well aerated, and wait until everything looks pretty well broken down.

Commercial activators can help raise the temperature in your compost pile by providing a concentrated dose of microorganisms and protein. Other effective activators that can help to get your pile cooking include humus-rich soil, rotted manure, finished compost, dried blood, and alfalfa meal.

To Turn or Not to Turn

Unless speed is a priority, frequent turning is not necessary. Many people never turn their compost piles. The purpose of turning is to increase oxygen flow for the microorganisms, and to blend undecomposed materials into the center of the pile. If you are managing a hot pile, you'll probably want to turn your compost every 3 to 5 days, or when the interior temperature dips below about 110 degrees F. Monitor the temperature with acompost thermometer; use garden shovel, fork or acompost aerator to help turn the pile.

After turning, the pile should heat up again, as long as there is still undecomposed material to be broken down. When the temperature stays pretty constant no matter how much you turn the pile, your compost is probably ready. Though turning can speed the composting process, it also releases heat into the air, so you should turn your pile less frequently in cold weather.

There are several ways to help keep your pile well-aerated, without the hassle of turning:

• Build your pile on a raised wood platform or on a pile of branches.
• Make sure there are air vents in the sides of your compost bin.
• Put one or two perforated 4" plastic pipes in the center of your pile.

Worm Composting

Employing worms to make compost is called vermiculture. Manure worms, red worms, and branding worms (the small ones usually sold by commercial breeders) are dynamos when it comes to decomposing organic matter—especially kitchen scraps. The problem is that these worms cannot tolerate high temperatures. Add a handful of them to an active compost pile and they'll be dead in an hour. Field worms and night crawlers (common garden worms with one big band) are killed at even lower temperatures.

To maintain a separate worm bin for composting food scraps, you need a watertight container that can be kept somewhere that the temperature will remain between 50 and 80 degrees F. all year-round. Ready-made worm bins are available, but you can also make your own. Red worms are available by mail.

Types of Composters

Plastic Stationary Bins. These bins are for continuous rather than batch composting. Most units feature air vents along the sides and are made from recycled plastics, such as our Pyramid Composter. Look for a lid that fits securely, and doors to access finished compost. Size should be approximately 3 feet square.

Tumbling or Rotating Bins. These composters, such as our Dual-Batch Compost Tumbler, are for making batches of compost all at one time. You accumulate organic materials until you have enough to fill the bin, then load it up and rotate it every day or two. If materials are shredded before going into the bin, and you have plenty of nitrogen, you can have finished compost in five weeks or less.

Wire Bin. Use an 11-foot length of 2-inch x 4-inch x 36-inch welded, medium-gauge fence wire from your local hardware or building supply store. Tie the ends together to form your hoop. A bin this size holds just over one cubic yard of material. Snow fencing can be used in a similar fashion. Another option is our 3-Bin Wire Composter, which holds 48 cubic feet.

Trash Can Bin. To convert a plastic trash can into a composter, cut off the bottom with a saw. Drill about 24 quarter-inch holes in the sides of the can for good aeration. Bury the bottom of the can from several inches to a foot or more below the soil surface and press the loosened soil around the sides to secure it. Partially burying the composter will make it easier for microorganisms to enter the pile.

Block or Brick or Stone Bin. Lay the blocks, with or without mortar, leaving spaces between each block to permit aeration. Form three sides of a 3-to 4-foot square, roughly 3 to 4 feet high.

Wood Pallet Bin. Discarded wooden pallets from factories or stores can be stood upright to form a bin. Attach the corners with rope, wire, or chain. A fourth pallet can be used as a floor to increase air flow. A used carpet or tarp can be placed over the top of the pile to reduce moisture loss or keep out rain or snow.

Two- or Three-Bay Wood Bin. Having several bins allows you to use one section for storing materials, one for active composting, and one for curing or storing finished compost. Each bin should be approximately 3 x 3 x 3 feet. Be sure to allow air spaces between the sidewall slats, and make the front walls removable (lift out slats) for easy access. Lift-up lids are nice.

Understanding pH & Soil testing

You’ll often read or usually get an advice, but many of us do get the recommendation to check soil pH, but what does it really mean? Technically, pH is a gauge of the hydrogen-ion concentration in the soil, pH is simply a measure of how acid or alkaline a substance is, and soil acidity or alkalinity (soil pH) is important because it influences how easily plants can take up nutrients from the soil. Many organic/synthetic fertilizer manufacturers, plant sellers and many catalogs list the preferred pH for specific plants. The good news for gardeners is that, with a few exceptions, most plants will tolerate a fairly wide range of soil pH, which is measured on a scale of 1-14, with 7 as the neutral mark, anything below 7 considered acidic soils and anything above 7 considered alkaline soil. For the gardener’s needs, it is enough to know whether your soil is alkaline or acid because certain nutrients can only be accessed by plants when the soil pH falls into an acceptable range. Most plants prefer a somewhat neutral pH, anything from 6.2 to 7.0. However there are many plants that are more specific in their pH needs, such as blueberries which like a very acidic soil and a few others that prefer a more alkaline soil. As in layman language acid soils are often referred to as “sour” and alkaline soils “sweet”.

Nutrient uptake by roots and soil pH: Plant roots absorb mineral nutrients such as nitrogen and iron when they are dissolved in water. If the soil (the mixture of water and nutrients in the soil) is too acid or alkaline, some nutrients won’t dissolve easily, so they won’t be available for uptake by the roots. Which can cause the deficiency of nutrient in the plant and can cause normal growth and can affect the overall health of the plant. Most nutrients that plants need can dissolve easily when the pH of the soil solution ranges from 6.0 to 7.5. Below pH 6.0, some nutrients, such as nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, are less available. When the pH exceeds 7.5, iron, manganese, and phosphorus are less available.

pH Affects Nutrients, Minerals and Growth

The effect of soil pH is greater on the solubility of minerals or nutrients. Before a nutrient can be used by plants it must be dissolved in the soil solution. Most minerals and nutrients are more soluble or available in acid soils than in neutral or slightly alkaline soils. Phosphorus is never readily soluble in the soil but is most available in soil with a pH range centered around 6.5. Extremely and strongly acid soils (pH 4.0-5.0) can have high concentrations of soluble aluminum, iron and manganese which may be toxic to the growth of some plants. A pH range of approximately 6 to 7 promotes the most ready availability of plant nutrients. But some plants, such as azaleas, rhododendrons, blueberries, white potatoes and conifer trees, tolerate strong acid soils and grow well. Also, some plants do well only in slightly acid to moderately alkaline soils. However, a slightly alkaline (pH 7.4-7.8) or higher pH soil can cause a problem with the availability of iron to pin oak and a few other trees in Central New York causing chlorosis of the leaves which will put the tree under stress leading to tree decline and eventual mortality.

The soil pH can also influence plant growth by its effect on activity of beneficial microorganisms Bacteria that decompose soil organic matter are hindered in strong acid soils. This prevents organic matter from breaking down, resulting in an accumulation of organic matter and the tie up of nutrients, particularly nitrogen, that are held in the organic matter.

Changes in Soil pH

Soils tend to become acidic as a result of:

1. Rainwater leaching away basic ions (calcium, magnesium, potassium and sodium).
2. Carbon dioxide from decomposing organic matter and root respiration dissolving in soil water to form a weak organic acid.
3. The formation of strong organic and inorganic acids, such as nitric and sulfuric acid, from decaying organic matter and oxidation of ammonium and sulfur fertilizers.
   Strongly acid soils are usually the result of the action of these strong organic and inorganic acids. Lime is usually added to acid soils to increase soil pH. The addition of lime not only replaces hydrogen ions and raises soil pH, thereby eliminating most major problems associated with acid soils but it also provides two nutrients, calcium and magnesium to the soil. Lime also makes phosphorus that is added to the soil more available for plant growth and increases the availability of nitrogen by hastening the decomposition of organic matter. Liming materials are relatively inexpensive, comparatively mild to handle and leave no objectionable residues in the soil.
   

Some common liming materials are:

1. Calcic limestone which is ground limestone;
2. Dolomitic limestone from ground limestone high in magnesium; and
3. Miscellaneous sources such as wood ashes.

The amount of lime to apply to correct a soil acidity problem is affected by a number of factors, including soil pH, texture (amount of sand, silt and clay), structure, and amount of organic matter. In addition to soil variables the crops or plants to be grown influence the amount of lime needed.
In addition to monitoring soil pH the nutrient status of the soil should be examined.
Correcting acid soil: If your soil is too acid, you must add alkaline material, a process commonly called liming. The most common liming material is ground limestone.

There are two types: calcitic limestone (calcium carbonate) and dolomitic limestone (calcium-magnesium carbonate). In most instances, you’ll use calcitic lime. Apply dolomitic lime only if your soil also has a magnesium deficiency.

Ground limestone breaks down slowly in the soil. Apply it to the garden and lawn in the autumn to allow time for it to act on soil pH before the next growing season. A rule of thumb for slightly acidic soils is to apply 5 pounds of lime per 100 square feet to raise pH by one point. In general, sandy soils will need less limestone to change pH; clay soils will need more. The amount of lime you must add to correct pH depends not only on your soil type but also on its initial pH. For example, applying 5 pounds 464of limestone per 100 square feet will raise the pH of a sandy loam soil from 6.0 to 6.5. It would take 10 pounds per 100 square feet to make the same change in silty loam soil. However, if 5.6 was the initial pH of the soil, 8 pounds per 100 square feet would be required for the sandy loam soil, and 16 pounds per 100 square feet of the silty loam soil. There is no simple rule of thumb that applies to all soils. The safest approach to take if you plan to apply limestone is to have your soil tested and follow the lab recommendations. Applying wood ashes also will raise soil pH. Wood ashes contain up to 70 percent calcium carbonate, as well as potassium, phosphorus, and many trace minerals. Because it has a very fine particle size, wood ash is a fast-acting liming material. Use it with caution, because overplaying it can create serious soil imbalances. Limit applications to 11 kg’s per 1,000 square feet, and apply ashes only once every 2 to 3 years in any particular area. At this rate, your soil will get the benefits of the trace minerals without adverse effects on pH.

Correcting alkaline soil : Alkaline soils are usually found in chalky or limestone areas or where there’s builder’s rubble in the soil. Plant roots have difficulty penetrating alkaline soils (especially trees) due to the pockets of solid chalk or limestone rock. During dry periods, only a limited amount of water can be held and the soil becomes extremely dry due to the soil consistency. Once plants are established however, they can grow a deep root system allowing them to absorb the maximum amount of water.

Improve the Organic Content : There is a wide range of plants that you can grow in alkaline soil but if you want to grow even more species you’ll need to improve the organic content of the soil. To do this (after a period of rain) add large amounts of leaf mould, well-rotted manure or garden compost. Dried blood can also help improve the nutrient levels. Using a fork, break up the top layer of soil to help roots develop more easily before planting.

If your soil is too alkaline, add a source of acidity. The most common material to add is powdered elemental sulfur. As a rule of thumb, add 1 pound of sulfur per 100 square feet to lower pH 1 point. But as with lime, the correct amount will depend on your soil type and its initial pH. Testing your soil and following lab recommendations is the best approach if you want to lower the pH of an entire bed or an area of your yard. Mixing peat moss with the soil will also lower pH, but peat moss is not a sustainable resource and has been over harvested in many areas; incorporating ample organic matter (such as shredded leaves) is a more environmentally friendly option.

BENEFITS OF SOIL TESTING

Soil pH (Acidity Test): ­ If the soil is too acidic, aluminum is dissolved causing a specific ion toxicity. The plant growth is stunted and the leaf coloration is sometimes deep green. If the soil is too alkaline, some plant nutrients are unavailable causing a mineral deficiency. The source of these two problems can be the use of too much plant fertilizer of the incorrect type. A soil acidity (pH test) is required to know the soil acidity status. Managing alteration in soil acidity with choice of nitrogen fertilizers – Fertilizer products are not interchangeable. Each product has a particular advantage and benefit over other materials. Use of the incorrect product will exacerbate problems while the correct one will enhance growth. For instance with nitrogen products, ammonium sulfate (21-0-0) will acidify the soil; ammonium nitrate (34-0-0) will be pH neutral if not over applied; calcium nitrate (15.5-0-0) will slightly increase the soil pH; urea (46-0-0) needs to be hydrolyzed before it is available. Nitrate nitrogen will supply soil oxygen. Ammonium nitrogen consumes oxygen when it is nitrified to nitrate. Slow-release nitrogen materials also have certain benefits. Urea formaldehyde (38-0-0) release nitrogen according to temperature and biological activities

Presence of limestone :­ If limestone (calcium carbonate or chalk) is present, acid-loving plants become iron deficient unless corrective measures are taken.

Lime Requirement:­ In areas of high rainfall, there are inadequate levels of potassium, calcium and/or magnesium due to the acidic soil. Tests for the required level of limestone or dolomite needed to raise the soil pH to a safe level are essential.
Excess Salts in the Soil: ­ If salts excessively accumulate in the soil, many plants are unable to use the moisture in the soil and may have a toxicity of sodium and/or chloride. A salinity test ( the term used by laboratories is salinity) is required to determine if this is a problem. The salinity can be controlled by leaching unless soils have drainage problems. A soil high in salinity is called “saline.”

Excessive Sodium:­ Excessive sodium or a “sodic” soil most often has an elevated pH level. Soils high in pH values are suspect. Sodium can cause toxicity, but the more likely problem is soil compaction and poor drainage caused by the reaction of sodium on the clay.

Gypsum Requirement ­: Excessive sodium can be corrected with the addition of gypsum. Another cause of high pH values is the presence of bicarbonates. Gypsum is also used to precipitate the excessive bicarbonates and lower the very high soil pH values. A soil test shows how much gypsum is needed.

Fertility : Most plants require at least 16 nutrients. Three nutrients are supplied by the water and by the air (oxygen, hydrogen and carbon). Thirteen is mineral nutrients. If anyone is too low, the plants will not grow. In some cases, too much fertilizer has been applied causing an adverse reaction. Overdose of phosphorus, for instance, inhibits the plant uptake of iron, manganese, zinc and copper causing induced deficiencies. The best method to determine if a problem is caused by a true deficiency or is an induced deficiency is soil testing. Soil analysis is used to assess the nutrient levels of the soil. Plant tissue testing is also used to ascertain which nutrients have reduced availability in the soil.
Toxicity ­: Soils may contain toxic metals. They either exist in the soil naturally or have been introduced as contaminants in amendments. Mined minerals and waste products are the frequent contaminant sources. These elements prevent plant growth. If a vegetable garden is to be grown and if the presence of heavy metals is suspected, the soil should be tested as a precaution for human poisoning. Lead can be present in urban soil at levels which do not injure plants but can accumulate in produce at levels which may harm humans. Excess levels of selenium and molybdenum are problems with wildlife or cattle. Other common toxic elements are aluminum, cadmium, chromium, nickel, arsenic, silver, and vanadium.

Soil Compaction :­ Excessive compaction impedes root growth, impairs water penetration and reduces soil aeration. Reduced aeration hinders the absorption of nutrients. In addition, slow water penetration exasperates the problem. Soil compaction can be measured and corrected with soil conditioners. Their need can be detected by soil testing.

How To Build The Ultimate Compost Bin

Step 1: Explain patiently to professional carpenter husband over several months that current compost bins are old and too small and in the wrong place.  Paint dazzling word pictures of abundant food and rich soil that would result from beautiful new compost bins.

Step 2: Research.  Turns out it’s not easy to find a good set of plans!  Most of the compost bin instructions out there are for recycled pallet bins or a couple of other common designs that were dismissed by said husband as either too ugly, too expensive to build on our budget, or lacking in lateral or other significant supports.  We did end up finding these useful plans from the City of Vancouver, and this became our base idea.  I figured that if these plans would keep Vancouver compost dry in the winter monsoons and safe from raccoons and other city critters, they were good enough for us.

Step 3: Take stock of existing supplies and recycle as much as possible.  Can you believe the fr#@%!*g price of wood these days?!  Skipper recycled our previous deck stairs and some cedar posts that he rescued from a job site a year or so ago.  He salvaged as much of the old bin’s cedar as he could.  We bought a small amount of pressure-treated wood for the base, a small amount of cedar for the front pieces, some hardware cloth to rodent-proof the bins, and a small number of assorted screws and other bits and bobs, and we’re still into this for almost $300.  Hence the large number of online plans for recycled pallet compost bins!

Step 4: When the good weather arrives—start building!

Before:

Old 2-bin system falling apart. Note loose plywood top--hinges are rusted out and old lid is long gone...

Preparing the new site perpendicular to the old one. New footprint: 10' x 4'.

The frame of recycled cedar posts stacked on concrete pavers to keep the wood off the ground.

We decided to raise the bins off the ground for both rodent-proofing and to make shoveling a little easier on the back.

Coming together: more salvaged and recycled cedar. Former deck stairs create the base. We could have parked our deck chairs right there, it's so sturdy!

Hardware cloth on; first bin complete!

Complete! New metal roof, and compost curing in its new home.

The details…

Each of the front (removable) panels has 2 screws in place at the bottom and has holes drilled in it for air circulation

The metal roof on its cedar frame. Light for me to lift!

The finished product!

Source : http://backyardfeast.wordpress.com/2011/02/15/how-to-build-the-ultimate-compost-bin/

Hydroinvent

Italy: Soil-less solutions as a hobby as well as for furnishing and design
Hydroinvent was created by Stefano Sergiani, an enthusiast of the soil-less cultivation technique, in combination with a company that produces metal, plastic and mechanical works and another that designs furnishing for shops and trade fair stands.

This unusual interaction created an innovative and dynamic company that aims at spreading soil-less cultivation in Italy thanks to its small terraces and domestic greenhouses as well as furnishings such as wall and table elements.

Not only does Hydroinvent manufacture the products, but it also tests them and publishes the results on its website. After-sales assistance is also available in the blog area.

Hydroinvent aeroponic systems are produced using ducts made with a non-toxic material, an extruded tubular structure made with anticorodal aluminium and a made in Italy submersible pump. All of the products have to pass quality and productivity tests before they are placed on the market.

Hydroinvent plants are modular and expandable. They are usually equipped with 1 to 2 metre ducts, however they can be cut to any requested measure. The number of pots and their diameter can also be customised. 

Hydroponic NFT systems are easy to use, reliable and require minimum intervention. The nourishing film technique leads to great results especially with salad and strawberries.

A good alternative is also represented by the RTW system which, thanks to its 1.7 litre pot, is suitable for plants with bigger roots such as raspberries, tomatoes, aubergines and peppers.

Source: http://www.freshplaza.com/news_detail.asp?id=106684

Top 10 Mistakes Greenhouse Growers Make when Planning a Greenhouse Expansion

There are many pitfalls to avoid when planning an expansion of your greenhouse. Your business relies on many factors such as crop deadlines and financing – make sure you are planning your new builds accordingly and make the proper considerations. Here are some common mistakes:

1. Not giving yourself enough time to execute your greenhouse expansion.
No matter how good your greenhouse manufacturer is, or how fast your greenhouse construction company is, no one can deliver a turnkey greenhouse yesterday when you are placing your order today. Proper planning takes time, and crop deadlines are important. Discuss this early with your greenhouse manufacturer and they will be able to assist you in putting together a proper timeline so decision on details like, greenhouse structure, heating, irrigation, and the environmental controls can be scheduled to give you the finished greenhouse when you need it.

2. Focusing only on price when deciding who is going to supply all the components of your greenhouses.
We all know that the greenhouse industry, like most industries in North America, has suffered from tough economic times, and it is easy to focus on costs when times are tough. But no one ever saved themselves rich. Cost cutting will only take a business owner so far. Capital investment decisions like building a new greenhouse, investing in hot water heating, or putting in rolling benches and energy curtains requires more than getting the lowest price, it requires a value assessment. Price combined with quality, delivery, after sales service, and ROI make an intelligent investment decision. Don’t be the one to buy something cheap only to find out that you got what you paid for!

3. Forgetting the importance of your crop sales and marketing
If you build it they will come! This is certainly one of those great movie lines that does not stand in the real world. Expand your greenhouse production to double your size, and you need to double your sales to pay for it. Sure some extra capacity makes good sense, but you need to make a business case for greenhouse expansion, and that starts with the top line of your income statement. Revenue!

4. Using your operating line of credit to finance greenhouse capital projects
This is another classic mistake that has gotten more than a few greenhouse growers in hot water with their banks, their suppliers, and sometimes their employees. Operating lines are for operating costs, something you will also likely need to increase if adding substantially to your greenhouse business. Adding a new greenhouse is a capital purchase, and should be approached like one if you intend to have the money to pay for your new greenhouse irrigation system, boiler, and environmental controls.

5. Asking your banker only for the money needed to pay for what greenhouse equipment you have been quoted
It doesn’t matter how detailed you are in your planning; major construction projects almost always have cost overruns. At GGS we recommend our customers approach their lending institutes and request 10% more than what they budget. This shows people financing your greenhouse that you build in contingencies, which actually makes you look less risky than if you had asked for less. 10% can go a long way to covering unexpected costs, like new building permit fees implemented by the town, or realizing you forgot to get a quote for your greenhouse poly, or changing your mind and wanting to add an extra loading dock at the last minute.

6. Not verifying the quality of steel that makes up the greenhouse structure and the greenhouse heating pipes
A few years ago it was unheard of to see substandard steel being sold in our industry, but with cost pressures at every turn some greenhouse manufacturers and some heating companies have been purchasing steel offshore with little or no quality control. GGS is among many steel structure manufacturers who have achieved A660 certification in order to ensure our customers that every piece of steel that goes into a GGS greenhouse structure meets the quality standards of structural grade steel. Whether the greenhouse will be used as a retail garden center, a farm code greenhouse, a shipping warehouse, or other storage facility, it is in your best interest to make sure the steel is A660 quality certified.

7. Trying to be a Greenhouse Grower and a Greenhouse General Contractor at the same time
One of the great strengths in the greenhouse industry is that we tend to be doers rather than managers. Greenhouse business owners in general work their business. They get dirt under their nails. They are hands on! But, you know they say every coin has two sides, and with this great strength comes an equally great weakness in that we have a difficult time letting go. A greenhouse owner will certainly reduce the cost of an expansion by managing the entire process himself rather than hiring a company to manage all the subcontractors, but have you considered the cost of taking you away from your other jobs in order to manage a new greenhouse build?

8. Not getting all the greenhouse component suppliers together to coordinate design and construction
There is a saying in construction: the first person in gets to go where they want. What this means is that in an uncoordinated construction site, there are always cost overruns because someone else has put their systems where the next person expected to be able to go. If you hired someone to manage the greenhouse construction then most of this worry should be taken care of, but if you didn’t, then you as the greenhouse owner / manager need to ensure that everyone knows what everyone else is doing. The earlier in the planning process you can get the team together the faster and less expensive the final greenhouse construction project will be.

9. Not calculating the ROI of your greenhouse investment options
Often when our sales people sit down with a greenhouse owner to discuss what they want to include in a greenhouse design the initial decisions are made based on what they have in their existing greenhouses. It is our job to educate our customers on the benefits of other options that may not otherwise be considered and may be options that provide a great return to the greenhouse operation. In the 1990s GGS successfully showed growers the value of natural ventilation for horticulture crops and food production. Now natural ventilation is an industry standard. Energy curtains in your greenhouse can produce a significant payback for poly greenhouses as well as glass greenhouses when you look at heat costs and the energy savings curtains provide. Higher under gutter heights… 21 and 24 feet high have shown better crop yields. Talk to your greenhouse structures sales representative for what other options may work for you.

10. Not researching what government programs may be available.
GGS and our sister company Niagrow Systems Ltd. Have had tremendous success helping greenhouse operations understand where government grants may be available. In Canada and the United States there are currently many energy savings programs that will pay a portion of investment costs in things like thermal energy curtains, biomass boilers, the use of solar energy or wind power. There are other programs that help pay for water conservation initiatives like flood floors, and treating rain water in a closed loop system. And there are other programs designed specifically to help the family farm. It is a good idea to make yourself familiar with all the options available before you plan or as soon as you begin to plan your greenhouse expansion.

Source: http://ggs-greenhouse.com/blog